Autumn colour in Japan — koyo, or momiji when it means the maples — runs in the opposite direction to the cherry blossom. It starts on the high peaks of Hokkaido in mid-September and moves south and downhill for about three months, finishing in Kyoto's temple gardens in the first days of December. For a photoshoot, that means two decisions: which week of the wave your trip falls in, and how to be under the trees before the tour buses.
Below is the calendar from north to south, the places we shoot in each region, how the evening light-ups work, and the crowd strategies that make the busiest weeks workable.
The calendar, north to south
Leaves turn when night temperatures fall below about 8 °C, and they turn fastest after a run of cold nights with sunny days. A warm October delays everything; a cold snap brings it forward. Mountains turn before the valleys below them, which is why one region can offer three or four weeks of colour if you are willing to change altitude.
| Region | Usual peak | Where the colour is | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hokkaido, Daisetsuzan peaks | mid- to late September | Asahidake, Ginsendai | Japan's first colour; mountain weather |
| Hokkaido, Sapporo and Jozankei | early to late October | Jozankei gorge, Hokkaido University ginkgo avenue | Ginkgo turns gold in late October |
| Nikko, Lake Chuzenji and Irohazaka | mid- to late October | the switchback road, Kegon Falls | Traffic jams on weekends |
| Nikko town | late October to early November | Shinkyo bridge, Toshogu | Cedars keep the shrines dark |
| Kanazawa | early to mid-November | Kenrokuen | Snow ropes go up from 1 November |
| Kawaguchiko and Hakone | early to late November | Momiji Corridor, Lake Ashi | Fuji clearer as November goes on |
| Tokyo | late November to early December | ginkgo avenues, Rikugien | Ginkgo first, maples a week later |
| Kyoto | mid-November to early December | Higashiyama, Arashiyama, Tofukuji | The most crowded weeks of the year |
Where we shoot, region by region
Hokkaido
The earliest colour in the country is on the slopes of Asahidake, reachable by ropeway, where the alpine shrubs turn red and yellow in the second half of September. It is a hiking trip rather than a portrait spot, and snow can arrive at the top by early October. For a shoot, the Jozankei gorge, under an hour from Sapporo by bus, is more practical in October, with onsen hotels along the river. In late October the ginkgo avenue at Hokkaido University turns gold and is free to walk through. See Hokkaido.
Nikko
Nikko gives you two seasons in one place. Up at Lake Chuzenji, about 1,270 metres above sea level, the colour peaks in mid- to late October, and the Irohazaka switchbacks between the lake and the town are lined with maples. On October weekends the road jams for hours, so we go on weekdays or before 8 am. Down in town, the red lacquered Shinkyo bridge and the approaches to Toshogu peak in late October and early November. Our Nikko autumn leaves shoot plans the two around each other.
Kawaguchiko and Hakone
The Momiji Corridor (Momiji Kairo) on the north shore of Lake Kawaguchi is a tunnel of old maples beside a stream, lit up in the evenings during the autumn leaves festival in November. It is busiest at the light-up; the morning, with Fuji clear over the lake, is the time to photograph it. Fuji tends to show itself more often as November goes on, because the air dries out. See the Fuji autumn leaves shoot. In Hakone, the colour comes in mid-November around Lake Ashi and the Gora area, and a ryokan with its own garden is often the calmest place to shoot.
Tokyo
Tokyo turns gold before it turns red. The ginkgo avenue at Meiji Jingu Gaien, about 300 metres of trees on both sides of the road, peaks in the last week of November, when a ginkgo festival takes over the adjacent ground. Rikugien, a strolling garden in Komagome, holds an evening light-up for its maples in late November and early December. The Imperial Palace East Gardens and the moats are quieter alternatives near Tokyo Station. See Tokyo for the city overview.
Kyoto
Kyoto has more autumn temples than any visitor can see in one trip, and the peak — usually from around 20 November into the first days of December — is when the city is at its fullest.
- Tofukuji has the famous view of a valley of maples from the Tsutenkyo bridge. During the peak the temple bans photography on the bridge, so it is a place to look, not to shoot portraits.
- Eikando and Kiyomizu-dera open for evening light-ups in autumn, with separate tickets and no tripods.
- Shinnyo-do and the lanes around it, east of the city, are calmer and open earlier than the headline temples.
- In Arashiyama, the hills across the Oi river turn in patches, and the garden at Tenryu-ji opens at 8:30.
Our Kyoto autumn leaves shoot and Arashiyama autumn leaves shoot pages go into the routes.
Light-ups: what to expect
Many temples and gardens open after dark in the peak weeks, lighting the maples from below. They are lovely to walk and hard to photograph people in: entry is timed or queued, crowds are dense, tripods are almost always banned, and flash is unwelcome. Light-ups usually run from around 17:30 to 21:00, on separate tickets from daytime entry. We treat them as an evening out after a morning shoot, not as the shoot itself.
Crowd strategies that work
- Be at the gate when it opens. Most temples open between 8:00 and 9:00; the first 30 minutes are the quietest of the day.
- Shoot outside the gates. Approaches, side streets and the slopes around a temple often have the same trees without the entry queue — and without the rules on commercial photography that apply inside.
- Go uphill or downhill. If the valley is past its best, the colour is still fresh 200 metres higher; if the hills are bare, the town may just be peaking.
- Use weekdays. In Kyoto, the Saturday of the peak week is the hardest day of the year to move around; the city buses are packed, and walking or the train is quicker.
- Avoid 3 November and the Labour Thanksgiving weekend (23 November) in Kyoto if you can — both are national holidays.
Light and colour
The low autumn sun helps. In the morning and late afternoon it shines through the leaves rather than onto them, and backlit maples glow. Our autumn leaves sessions start in those hours. An overcast day is not a loss: soft light keeps reds from burning out and suits faces.
Do not try to match the leaves. Orange, red and mustard clothing disappears into a maple canopy. Navy, charcoal, cream, olive and deep green contrast with it. In Kyoto in late November, mornings are often 5 to 8 °C; in Hokkaido in October, a warm coat is not optional.
Booking around a moving peak
Our autumn leaves photoshoot is $260 for 30 minutes and 15 edited photographs; extra hours are $150 each. Book once your trip is fixed and tell us the window you are in. About a week before, we check the colour reports for your dates and choose the place that is at its best. If you are in Kyoto in the first week of November, for example, that may mean the hills or a day trip rather than the city temples.
For photographs in kimono among the maples, see our kimono rental guide. For the spring counterpart to this calendar, see the cherry blossom photoshoot guide.
Before you book
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see autumn leaves in Kyoto?
Usually from around 20 November into the first days of December. The hills around the city turn a week or so earlier than the temples in town, and the exact peak moves with the weather each year.
Where can I see autumn colour in October?
In Hokkaido — Jozankei and Sapporo — and in Nikko, where Lake Chuzenji and the Irohazaka road peak in mid- to late October. Kyoto and Tokyo are still green in October.
Can we take portraits at the evening light-ups?
Rarely well. Light-ups are crowded, timed and almost always ban tripods and flash. We shoot in the morning or late afternoon and suggest the light-up as an evening visit.
What should we wear for an autumn leaves photoshoot?
Colours that contrast with the leaves: navy, charcoal, cream, olive or deep green. Orange, red and mustard blend into the canopy. Bring a warm layer — Kyoto mornings in late November are often 5 to 8 °C.
