Around 1,300 sika deer live in and around Nara Park, protected as a national natural monument and fed by visitors with shika senbei crackers sold from stalls across the park. The shoot that works is early: before the coach groups arrive at about 09:30, the deer are calm, the lawns below Todai-ji are empty, and mist often sits in the cedar woods towards Kasuga Taisha. A deer that has learned you hold crackers will follow, nudge and occasionally nip, so we keep them out of sight until the frame is set.
The park is a single walkable square kilometre holding three World Heritage sites: Todai-ji with its bronze Buddha in what was long the world’s largest wooden hall, Kasuga Taisha with its corridors of some 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns, and Kofuku-ji’s five-storey pagoda. Isuien and Yoshikien gardens sit side by side on the western edge, and Naramachi’s merchant lanes run south. Nara is a drone-free page for us: the park, the temples and the shrine all prohibit flights, and there is no private land close enough to change that.