Gion is the geiko district on the east bank of the Kamo River, and it is where the city page’s rules stop being general. The residents’ council of Gion Minamigawa put up signs in 2024 banning photography on the private lanes south of Shijo-dori, with a ¥10,000 fine, after years of visitors chasing maiko. Hanamikoji-dori itself is a public road and can be walked, but we do not stage portraits in it; we use the public streets around it — Shirakawa and the Tatsumi Bridge, Yasaka Shrine, and the lanes climbing towards Kiyomizu-dera.
What Gion gives that the rest of Kyoto does not is the townscape in one walk: wooden machiya with bamboo screens, willows over the Shirakawa canal, the five-storey Yasaka Pagoda at the top of a sloping lane, and the stone steps of Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. Shops on the slopes open at nine and the lanes fill by ten, so the session starts at six, with dressing arranged the night before or at your hotel.