The route
Golden Gai comes first because it is only workable early. We enter from the Hanazono Shrine side, where photographs are better tolerated, and shoot along two of the six lanes with a fast lens, skipping any lane with a no-photo sign — that is the base thirty minutes. With an extra hour we go on: ten minutes’ walk west, Central Road runs from the red Kabukicho gate to the Toho building, where Godzilla looks down from the eighth floor; it is loud and bright, so we take a few frames and move on, keeping touts and hosts out of the picture. The last stop is Omoide Yokocho across the tracks, reached through the underpass: grill smoke under red lanterns, photographed lengthways from the lane mouth without pointing into any stall.





