The route
The morning version: Kaminarimon at 7 and Nakamise with its shutters down fill the base half-hour; with an extra hour we go on to the pagoda and hall, then a ten-minute walk west to Kappabashi as the kitchen shops open around ten, under the giant chef’s head on the Niimi building. The evening version reverses direction: the river and Azuma Bridge at sunset, then, with the extra hour, back through Kaminarimon once the lantern is lit, and the main hall and pagoda illuminated after dark, when the grounds are nearly empty.









